Kwei Fei: Spicy Irreverence

A well-keyed menu that will guide you to greatness.

I fell for Kwei Fei in its infancy, when it still only existed as a weekend pop-up at The Daily. I waited in line with all the other kids-in-the-know to down some Sichuan noodles or mapo in the corner of a building where I'd had, just that morning, a breakfast pastry and coffee. Kwei Fei's chef seemed to dwarf The Daily's kitchen, and was clearly happy to be cooking for all the Charleston food nerds dying for some regional Chinese cuisine. So when it landed its own brick and mortar, I was dying to go. To be honest, I can't recall much of my first visit - pre-vegan - except that I loved it and had a great time.

My second visit, my first as a vegan, was a revelation in how much a good menu key (and a good menu) can elevate a dining experience for plant eaters.

Not only does Kwei Fei's menu key indicate which items are vegan (and there are lots of great options), but it also indicates which dishes are spicy, gluten-free, and locally-sourced. Of course, it can make one feel special to have a vegan menu brought out just for you (when one is available) but sticking with the old familiar progression of being seated, reading your menu, ordering, and eating along with the rest of the table, without having to make special inquiries, helps to normalize veganism - both to those of us that practice and those that don't.

#baiju for you

To wash down your fiery Sichuan fare, you're going to want some booze. Kwei Fei boasts a great local beer selection and has the distinction of being the only Charleston restaurant serving baiju, a traditional Chinese spirit that I had not even heard of prior to my last visit. The baiju is served in tiny half-shot glasses, and, like lots of traditional spirits that have been made for generations upon generations, it is STRONG AS FUCK. I recommend ordering one to help extinguish the spice in whichever dish you choose, and then extinguishing the baiju's burn with one of our lowcountry beers.

Kwei Fei's aesthetic blends some of what you expect to see in a typical Chinese restaurant in America (traditonal Chinese decor, the color red, symbols of good fortune) with some offbeat, irreverent touches - like the wall of photos of the entire staff taken in the style of 80's high school class pictures. The music is a mix of Americana oldies, latin disco, classic hip hop, and punk. As Kwei Fei is nestled next to longtime music venue the Pour House, you'll likely hear some local tunes pumping through the shared wall, in addition to the Spotify list. All of Kwei Fei's unconventional elements give it a cheeky, laid-back vibe that many downtown Charleston dining establishments lack in taking themselves super seriously.

All-in-all, Kwei Fei is a blessing to have in a city that's had a hard time hanging on to spots that offer international cuisine with a regional focus. With its recent additions of brunch and happy hour, you basically have no reason not to go. Let's do our part in keeping this gem alive, and enjoy some spicy, spicy vegan treats while we're at it.

When to visit: Paired with seeing a movie at art house Terrace Theater across the street, Kwei Fei makes for a perfect casual date night, or night out with buds that don't shy from some spice in their meals.